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Takahoot - Building a Target

Takahoot in action

BOM

You can find the Bill-Of-Materials in the dedicated page here.

1. Assembling the board

JST Socket

Take the PCB named Takahoot target, grab the 6-pin JST socket and insert it into its appropriate spot.
Make sure the board is on the right side, as shown on picture!

Board with JST socket

Solder it to the board as shown on picture: (NB: notice the board was flipped over! Don't forget to do the same)

Board with JST socket soldered

Arduino pins

Take your Arduino Nano v3 (328P recommended) and use a bolt cutter to cut out the straight-pins : 2x 3-pins, 3x 1-pin The angled pins should already be cut-out.

Arduino Board and Pins

Solder your angled pins first on the outside of the board (LED and PIEZO)

Angled Pins soldered

Then solder the other arduino pins one by one on your board.

Straight Pins soldered

In the end, it should look like this:

Straight Pins soldered front

Now be careful and insert the Arduino Nano board. Make sure the pins are in the right hole and the board in the right direction!

Arduino board soldered

You can now put solder on each pin and make sure your Arduino is now perfectly connected to the board

Straight Pins soldered

Congratulations! Your board is finished!

2. Assembling the target

Target Kit

The Box

The target box might already be assembled. If it's the case, you can go directly to the next part: LED Strip

In this part, we will only consider the case of the target, as shown on picture. Target Kit 2

First thing to do is to glue the sides together. This should be easy if you use a dense glue. We recommend using Plexiglas glue gel, which will give you both a firm grip from the first second and a quick dry. Gluing the sides together

After, find which will be the front and which will be the back of your target (as shown below). The center square hole (to connect the target) is not centered vertically. It is closer to the back of the target. Front and back

If you got it right, you can now glue the top of the target, using the same Plexiglas glue. Be gentle and precise. Front target glued

Your box is almost ready. To make sure we can access the target content (for firmware upgrades or anything else), we thought it would be nice if it was screwless. Therefore, we gave you some very cool and powerful magnets. Glue one in each corner, making sure they are all pointing the same direction (we used a red marker to mark their direction to avoid any cruel mistakes here!). We used an Epoxy glue for that one.

Gluing the magnets

Once the magnets are glued to the box, we can do the same and glue the other magnet to the back. For that one, we used plain old plastic glue, were very "generous" on the quantity, and cut anything extra after it dried.
Warning: Make sure you double-check which side you are gluing the back on, and the direction of each magnet. We don't want any surprises here!

Gluing the back corner

Gluing the back corner

Congratulations, your box should be all set :)

LED Strip

Take each LED Strip and plate it with tin.

LED Strips not tin-plated

LED Strips tin-plated

Once done, cut out 3 wire-strips of 7-7.5cm long. LED Wire length

Strip the ends and plate it with tin. LED Wire tin-plated

Assemble each strip to the next one, make sure that the arrow goes the same direction! Assembled strips

Cut one last wire-strip ~25cm long. Use your Crimping tool to make a 3-Dupont-female-pin on one end, and solder it to the first strip on the other end.

Crimping tool with Dupont Female connector

Assembling Dupont Connector

Assembling Dupont Connector (2)

You can then fix the LEDs on the target itself. Final LED Strip

Final LED Strip (2)

Great job!

Parts, Sensor & PCB

Take all the bolts and insert them in the 3D-printed supports. Sometimes, prints are so narrow that your plastic support wont let the bolt come in. This is where your soldering-iron might come handy. Be careful, heat the bolt slowly until it is perfectly in position.

Bolts and 3D-Printed parts

Bolts assembly

Bolts assembly final

Then you can screw on the board using the M3 screws. Bolts and 3D-Printed parts

Take the Piezo sensor and lock both wires inside their small PCB controller. Piezo Controller assembly

Then easily screw it on the Piezo 3D-printed support Piezo Controller assembly

You are now ready to fix the Piezo and its support on the white Plexiglas Hit-zone. Piezo Controller assembly

Get the Silicon dampers and make sure you put the Hit-zone in the right direction. You are now ready to fix the Piezo and its support on the white Plexiglas Hit-zone. Dampers and hit zone

Fix them one by one like this: You are now ready to fix the Piezo and its support on the white Plexiglas Hit-zone. Dampers hit zone assembled

Now find a way to make each damper go through the frontend of the Target. Warning: this may start to look VERY COOL! Dampers front zone assembled

Once you're done, you can simply put the wires together (make sure to get the wires right!!!) Target assembly

TADAAAAAAA Target final